Edinburgh - The Ultimate Guide
One of my absolute favorite cities in the whole wide world is without a doubt Edinburgh. My love for Harry Potter might have something to do with it, but even for non-Harry Potter fans, this city is a must-see. Thanks to COVID-19 it’s been way too long that I actually set foot in this city, but here is a complete guide based on my previous experiences in Edinburgh.
How to get to Edinburgh?
There are several ways to come to Edinburgh and they all depend on where you already are. If you are already in the UK, then one of the best way to get into Edinburgh by train. Edinburgh Waverly Station is located right in the middle of the city center and is easily accessible. There is a direct connection between London Kings Cross and Edinburgh Waverly station, with trains leaving every 30 minutes. While the train ride up north is beautiful, it is quite a long journey of 4,5 hours. If you’re already in Scotland, the bus is also a great way to get into Edinburgh.
If you’re not already in the UK, the easiest way to travel to Edinburgh is by plane since there are no direct ferries. Edinburgh airport is located 13 km west of the city, but there is this handy tram that brings you right into the city center in just 30 minutes. You won’t have to wait long either because a tram leaves every 7 minutes between 7am and 7pm. Don’t worry about getting stranded at the airport, because trams also run every 15 minutes outside these hours.
Want to know the best thing about Edinburgh Airport? Its website has a live security queue time tracker! I’m one of those people who gets nervous about being too late or too early at the airport, but this tracker takes away all my worries.
Where to stay in Edinburgh?
Okay, so there are literally hundreds of hostels, hotels, Airbnb and who knows what else kinds of places to stay in Edinburgh. I am a budget traveler who likes to be right in the city center, so I mostly look at hostels and affordable Airbnbs. I’m also convinced that once you’ve found a good place to stay, there’s no reason to look any further. I got lucky my first time and discovered CoDE Pod Hostels and I haven’t stayed anywhere else since.
CoDE Pod Hostel
If I’m honest, I’m not that big a fan of hostels. Sleep is very important to me, and I like my privacy. On the other hand, hostels are cheap and that is also crucial for budget travelers. CoDE Pod Hostel has the perfect solution. Instead of your regular bunk beds, they were one of the first ones to come up with the idea of using pods where you can close off your sleeping space with a curtain.
CoDE Pod Hostel has two locations: A co-living space at Rose Street and a hostel named The Court. The Court is where you can book short-term hostel stays. It is located right in the center of Edinburgh’s Old Town and used to be an old courthouse and jail. With Edinburgh being a historic town, CoDE Pod Hostels kept as many of these elements as possible. They also offer private rooms, which happen to be the old jail cells. Besides being a hostel, The Court also has an event space called The Lost Close. Here they offer whisky and beer tastings, as well as city tours.
The location at Rose Street used to be a hostel but is now transformed into a co-living place for long-term stays called The Loft. You can book a double room, the penthouse, or stay in one of the Pod Beds. Besides a bed, you also get a shared kitchen, workspace, high-speed internet, and a shared bathroom. This great co-living space is located on Rose Street, a street famous for its many bars and eating opportunities. While the place is right next to all the hustle and bustle of Edinburgh, I can assure you, you can still enjoy a good night's sleep (and I’m a difficult sleeper, so trust me!).
The Balmoral Hotel
Okay, so, I had to add this one because of my huge Harry Potter obsession. The Balmoral Hotel is the hotel where J. K. Rowling finished the Deathly Hallows. The outside looks majestic and regal and I can only imagine what the inside must look like. No way can I ever afford to stay a night here, but it is nice to dream, I guess.
What to do in Edinburgh?
Edinburgh is a historic city with vibrant city life. No matter your interest, you’ll surely find something to enjoy in Edinburgh. On my first time in Edinburgh, I did all the basics that every tourist must do once in their life.
Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is the tourist place to be in Edinburgh. The street runs between Edinburgh Castle on top and the Holyrood Palace down below. The Royal Mile is a combination of 4 streets: Castlehill starts at Edinburgh Castle, next is Lawnmarket, which is followed by High Street, which in turn becomes Canongate that ends at the Holyrood Palace. You’ll probably won’t notice the difference between these streets because the entire thing is just one stretched-out street full of shops, bars, restaurants, and historic buildings.
Yes, the Royal Mile is a tourist trap, but it is also a great way of getting a first impression of Edinburgh. I love walking on those cobblestone streets with beautiful old buildings left and right. You’ll pass by famous institutions like The Scotch Whisky Experience, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, St. Giles Cathedral, the Heart of Midlothian, and the Tolbooth Tavern.
Branching off from the Royal Mile are all sorts of cute little cobblestone streets. Some of my favorites are Cockburn St, the stairs of Warriston's Close, Anchor Close, and Old Fishmarket Close. Technically not connected to the Royal Mile but definitely worth mentioning is Victoria St, famous for J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley.
St. Giles Cathedral
The stairs of Warriston's Close
Victoria Street
Holyrood Palace
I don’t recommend visiting Edinburgh Castle (just a bit too touristy for my taste), but I did like Holyrood Palace all the way at the end of the Royal Mile. On entry, you get a multimedia guide that tells you all about how Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie lived in this beautiful palace. Depending on how intensely you inspect each room, the tour takes about 1 to 2 hours. I especially enjoyed the palace gardens and the ruins of Holyrood Abbey.
National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum of Scotland is free. That’s right, free. And totally awesome. The museum is huge. You can easily spend an entire day here. My favorite parts were the Animal World and Earth in Space. They have some Lewis chessmen (another Harry Potter reference, this time to the first movie) and, of course, Dolly the sheep. Lots of other very important historic artifacts too, but I must admit I’m not a historian and I usually don’t grasp the importance of those things. All the way up top, at level 7, there is a rooftop terrace from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of Edinburgh.
When going to the National Museum of Scotland, don’t forget to take a quick stop along the way at the Elephant House (yes, another Harry Potter reference) and Greyfriars Bobby statue.
The view from the rooftop terrace.
Princes Street Gardens and the Scott Monument
Between Princes St and Edinburgh Castle are the Princes Street Gardens. The park is divided into East Princes Street Gardens and West Princes Street Gardens by The Mound. The Mound connects New Town and Old Town and here you can find the Royal Scottish Academy and the National Gallery of Scotland. The Mound also gives you a beautiful view of the New College of the University of Edinburgh.
But back to the gardens. The Scott Monument is located in the much smaller East Gardens. If you like gothic architecture, this monument is definitely a must-see for you. Even if you don’t like gothic architecture, the East Gardens are still a great place to have a picnic or read a book. Thanks to its steep slopes, you get a nice wide view of the entire garden. This is also the place of the annual Edinburg Christmas Market.
The West Princes Street Gardens are much bigger. Here you can view the Edinburgh Castle in all its glory, or at least from down below. You’ll have to crane your neck quite a bit, but the view is worth it. The park is filled with benches and on a sunny day you’ll find dozens of people having a nice picnic in the park or just enjoying themselves in the sunshine. The overall atmosphere and the impressive Edinburgh Castle in the background make for a great afternoon.
Scott Monument
Edinburg Castle viewed from Princes Street Gardens
Arthur’s Seat
If you want the best view of Edinburgh, you’ll have to climb Arthur’s Seat. Located in Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat is a long dormant volcano to overlook the entire region. There are several hiking trails that take you to the top, ranging from “my legs are killing me” to “a nice meadow walk with some uphill parts”.
Don’t forget!
This part is specifically for us Europeans here, but of course applies to everyone. The days of easy access to the UK, Scotland included, are over. Now Brexit is officially in effect, you need to be mindful of entry requirements. For example, your ID card is no longer good enough, you need an actual passport now. As long as you are planning a holiday visit or a “short” trip (< 6 months), you don’t need a visa. Also, don’t forget they drive on the other side of the road and use pounds (£) instead of euros (€).